The focus of this piece is to provide some clarity on the process of developing bespoke fine jewellery.
When developing any bespoke piece, be it clothing, jewellery or furniture, it is important to give yourself plenty of lead time. Allowing for a portion of time spent exclusively on research and sourcing before engaging with the client and attempting to formulate their ideas and vision into a final product. Your research will allow you to come into the consultation well-informed and in a position to assist the client in the decision-making process, making sure you are both on the same page before the design work begins.
For this project the colour, style and size of the gemstone were selected by the client during the first in-person consultation, along with the base metal for the ring and the finger it will be worn on. From this point, the necessary information was collected for the design phase to begin. These elements include the signet ring style and shape based on our existing range, ring size, stone clarity, the desired finish of the metal surface, and the method for mounting the gemstone to the ring.
The base form of the ring was derived from our classic signet shape used for the engraved “TIP” ring. Slight modifications and adjustments were made to the profiles and contouring as well as the depth of the top face to cater for the size and thickness of the stone. Due to the size of the gemstone, it was important to make sure the proportions of the ring were consistent with that of the amethyst. This included subtle design tweaks at each stage of the production process, making sure the stone was displayed most desirably.
Two small details that made a difference to the outcome of the ring; It was firstly, increasing the size of the window underneath the gem, and following the profile of the chamfered cut on the underside of the stone. Proportionally this made the most sense allowing plenty of light to pass through the stone and reflect off the skin, illuminating the stone from all angles.
Secondly, ever so slightly raising the point at which the gem is set into the four clasps, creating a 1mm gap between the stone and the surface. This accentuated the contouring and profile of the gem itself allowing for more light to pass through the stone. The final outcome led to a far more eye-catching piece from all angles due to the interplay of light from the raised stone compared to the standard flush set gemstone.
The ring was finished with a large scale, laser engraved hallmark, bearing our makers mark. A suitable ring box was developed in house utilising the same branding and identity found throughout our fine jewellery packaging. Hand constructed with organic paper, cotton velvet lined and padded with natural wool. The lid showcases our chair motif, decorated with a bevel cut and hand gilded frame creating an alluring and instantly recognisable box whilst remaining understated and elegant.
We were over the moon with the final outcome of this project, and of course, the same can be said for our client.
