An explanation into our thought process behind our material choices, and an argument for choosing solid jewellery over a plated counterpart.
One key element we consider during the design phase of any given product is the focus on the use of solid material over plated.
The reason for this is due to longevity and appearance of the material overtime. A plated item when subject to repeated use over a prolonged period of time, wear away the plated layer diminishing the appearance substantially. The item would then have to be replated to achieve its original look.
Take our gold jewellery for instance, the difference between solid gold jewellery and gold plated jewellery is in the overall metal composition. Gold plating is when a thin film of gold is used to cover a base metal e.g. silver, copper or brass. Solid gold jewellery is made of one consistent grade of gold alloy throughout the item ranging from 9ct to 24ct and is available in a range of hues such as yellow, white or rose depending on the added alloys.
Plated jewellery is often the first to get cast aside. For example a piece of jewellery like a ring or a necklace may be worn regularly for daily activities, overtime the surface layer would erode and the base material would show through. The item would then no longer have the desired effect as the finish would be permanently tarnished. The same is often applicable for hardwear used on accessories like belts and bags. Two of the most common metals to be plated are brass and copper as they are towards the lower end of the price scale per gram.
Solid metals like brass, silver or gold can be polished to regain their original appearance. The use of a solid material creates a timeless and durable product.
Gold is measured in parts and percentage. The parts refer to the 24 parts in a solid block of gold, of these 24 parts a lower karat value indicates that more alloy has been added to the material composition e.g. 9 ct gold is 9 parts gold and 15 parts alloy making it 37.5% pure gold. Compared to 14 ct which is 14 parts gold and 10 parts alloy making it 58.3% pure gold. 24 ct gold is therefore the purest form of gold usually at 99.99%.
You may have heard the term “Sterling” silver and been curious as to what this refers to.Sterling is the name given to the alloy consisting of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper or zinc. The most plausible etymology is a derivation from a late Old English steorling - 'little star' referring to early Norman pennies consisting of the alloy imprinted with a small star motif.
The 925 stamp found on silver jewellery is a reference to this purity and is a marker that the item is genuine. In London these markings which are better known as “hallmarks” are struck at the Assay Office with the unique panther identifier. The same approach of hallmarking also applies for solid gold and other high grade metal products.
The number that gets stamped into the metal means that for every 1000 parts of material in the piece of metal, The sterling silver standard has a minimum millesimal fineness of 925 therefore 925 parts must be made of silver and no more than 75 parts out of the total 1000 parts should be a different metal.
Silver can tarnish quite heavily over time. This is down to various environmental elements reacting with the silver alloy causing discoloration, fading, and surface patina. A high quality 925 sterling silver product like a ring or a pendant for example can always be restored to its original shining state with the use of a simple polishing cloth.
When shopping for jewellery avoid cheaping out on plated products where possible as they will not serve you well in the long run. Spend a little more and acquire timeless items made from solid metals, they will stand the test of time and be enjoyed for a lifetime.
